Textile technology

Yarn manufacturing process

Type of fabric

Textile fabrics are classified in five

Category

1. According to type of fibre.
2. According to type of yarn.
3. According to type of manufacturing process.
4. According to type of fabric design and weave.
5. Industrial fabric

Fabric types

1. According to type of fibre:

According to type of fibre fabric is classified in many types.

• Cotton fabric:

Cotton fabric is generally made for shutting, shirting and dress materials. It  is type of fine fabric.

• Polyester fabric:

Polyester fabric is generally used for shutting and corse fabric.

• Silk fabric:

Silk fabric is very fine fabric. It is used for sarees fabric, ladies garments, chunari etc.

• Linen fabric:

It is used for men's garments like shirts,dhoti, etc.

• Jute fabric:

Jute fabric is coarse fabric. It is used for bags,carry bag, laugage bags, agriculture.

2. According to type of yarn:

According to type of yarn fabric is many types.

• Melange fabric:

In this type of fabric melange yarn is used.

It is generally used in knitted garments.

• Roving grindle fabric:

Roving grindle fabric is made from roving grindle yarn. Roving grindle yarn is made from two types of roving is spun a single yarn. It is used for knitted garments, ladies garments.

• Slub fabric:

In this type of fabric yarn is used slub yarn for fancy effect. It is used for knitted garments like T- shirts.

• Injection slub fabric

In this type of fabric injection slub yarn is used. It is used for fancy t shirts, ladies garments.

• Navy fabric:

In this type of fabric Navy shade yarn is used. It is very useful for knitting fabric.

• Khaki fabric:

In this type of fabric khaki shade yarn is used. It is used for dress materials.

3. According to manufacturing process.

According to manufacturing process fabric is many types

• Knitted fabric

This type of fabric is made from knitting machine. In this type of fabric loop is formed. Knitted fabric is very finer fabric. It is used for ladies garments and t shirts.

• Weaving fabric:

This type of fabric is made from weaving machine. This type of fabric is used for shutting, shirting and dress materials.

• Non woven fabric:-

This type of fabric is made from different types of fibres.

It is used in industrial purposes.

4. According to type of design or weave:

Many types of fabric is produced.

• Plain fabric:

This type of fabric is made to plain weave design. It is used for formal dress materials and shutting and shirting.

• Twill fabric:

In this type of fabric is made from twill weave design fabric. It is used for shutting and shirting.

• Terry fabric:

This type of fabric is made from Terry weaving machine. It is used for towels,and curtains etc.

• Double fabric

This type of fabric is made from two types of fabric is meshed with each other.

This type of fabric is used in automobile accessories.

5. Industrial fabric:

• Automobile fabric:

This type of fabric is used in automobile accessories like sheet covers, roof flooring etc

• Filter fabric:

This type of fabric is used for filters used in vechicles, like tractor engine filters,car filters, etc.

• Medical fabric:

It is used for masks, medical gowns, hand glubs.

• Geotextile:

This type of fabric is used for land covering,agricultural uses.

     

The selection of samples for textile testing

Warping Machine-2

BEAM(HIGH SPEED) WARPING MACHINE

High speed warping also is called beam warping/direct warping. In high speed warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. all the yarns are wound at once and simple flanged beam is used. it is a very high speed process. and is used for making fabric of single colour.

FLOW CHART OF HIGH SPEED WARPING

CREEL

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BEAM FOR SIZING

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WEAVER'S BEAM

FEATURES OF HIGH SPEED WARPING

1. It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities.
2. It is used to produce weaver's beam from single yarn.
3. The production is high.
4. Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weavers beam.
5. sizing is done.
6. simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required.

MAIN PARTS BEAM WARPING MACHINE

BEAM WARPING MACHINE

Process flow chart of yarn manufacturing

YARN MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Conversion of textile fiber to yarn

cotton:

cotton comes from farms in agriculture market. then cotton going to ginning factory and in ginning factory cotton is separated  from cotton seeds. then cotton is compressed by bale press machine and form a bale.  

FLOW CHART OF YARN MANUFACTURING PROCESS

 Cotton

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Ginning

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Bale form

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Blow room

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Carding

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Breaker Draw Frame

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Finisher Draw Frame

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Roving frame or Speed frame or Simplex

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Ring frame

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yarn

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winding or autoconer

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Packing

Basics of Textile testing

TEXTILE TESTING

To those engaged in the production, distribution, and consumption of textiles, testing can be a valuable aid provided that the instruments and techniques are used effectively. When tests are mad the results must be studied carefully so that the right course of action may be taken. Testing instrument cannot make decisions, and in the end some person has to interpret the data and issue the necessary instructions for future action. Testing is, therefore a means to an end and not an end in itself. The fact that a material has been tested, no matter how accurately, does not enhance its technical quality.

It has been said that the subject of textile testing can be covered by answering the “W” questions.

·        Why do we test?

·        What do we test?

·        When do we test?

·        Who does the test?

OBJECTIVE OF TESTING

RESEARCH:

The road along which the research worker travels is characterised by cross roads, fork roads, and bridges. At each stages there is a choice of directions. The results of testing in research will help the scientist to decide which route to follow next.

SELECTION OF RAW MATERIALS:

“Raw material” is a relative term; the raw material of spinner is the fibre, the raw material of weaver is yarn, and that of the finisher is cloth. One attribute common to most textile raw materials is there variation in quality. Fibres vary in length, colour and fineness; yarns vary in count, strength, and twist; fabrics vary in threads per inch, freedom from faults, and shrinkages.

Since the prevention is better than cure it is sound policy to test the available raw materials to ensure the smooth running of production process. Unsuitable materials can be rejected or perhaps put to another use. The standards by which materials accepted or rejected must be realistic, otherwise much will be rejected which in fact is good enough, or else large amounts of inferior material will find its way into the flow of production and cause trouble.

The testing of fibres is generally so important when dealing with man-made fibres and man-made continuous filament yarns, because they are supplied to customers’ requirements and there properties, including length, colour, and fineness are determined and controlled during their manufacture.

PROCESS CONTROL:

When goes out of control the amount of waste and the number of seconds increase, costs go up, and very often tempers too. Higher end-breakages in spinning and winding departments and excessive loom stops due to warp or weft breaks affects the operatives as well as production. A plan of production requires certain standard levels to which materials in process must conform.

For maximum effectiveness the “process control” test should be close to the processing machinery. Quick answers are required to prevent excessive amounts of faulty material from getting through before detection.

PROCESS DEVELOPMENT:

Process development may be considered as a form of applied research. The experimental work involved may be carried out in research institutes, in pilot plants within the boundaries of the mill, or perhaps on the actual processing machinery. In each case investigations into better, cheaper, and quicker methods of manipulating fibres and yarn are made.

PRODUCT TESTING:

If we could be absolutely certain that our choice of raw materials was right and that our system of process control had maintained the stipulated standard levels, and then we could pack the end-products into case with confidence, knowing that they would fulfill their intended purposes satisfactorily. Our knowledge of the effect of many variables possible in the structures of yarns and fabrics, including the effects of physical and chemical treatments, is limited.

Warping Machine-1

WARPING

The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cones or cheese) on to a common package (warp beam) is called warping.

OBJECTIVE OF WARPING:

1. To convert a predetermined number of single end packages, such as cones or cheese into a sheet of warp yarn of specified feed and length.

2. The individual ends in the warp are uniformly spaced across its full width.

IMPORTANCE OF WARPING

    1. Construction of warp yarn beam.

    2. Construction of parallel yarn sheet.

    3. Winding the predetermined length of yarn.

    4. Modifying the faults of yarn like thick and thin places, large knots etc.

    5. Accelerating the next process.

REQUIREMENT OF WARPING

1. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the       time of withdrawal from supply package.

2. Warp yarn should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.

3. The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic                     property.

4. The production of warp yarn beam should be high.

CLASSIFICATION OF WARPING

1. Beam warping

2. Sectional warping

3. Ball warping

BEAM WARPING

1. Yarn is directly wound from cone onto the beam.

2. This process is suitable for single colour weaving.

3. The end product is called warp beam and must send to the sizing                                     department for further process.

TYPE OF BEAM WARPING

A). Direct driven or spindle driven:

In which yarn winding speed on to the beam increases as the diameter of the beam increases. Beam size is limited due to the increase in yarn winding tension.

B). Surface driven beam warping:

In which beam gets its motion while in contact with a drum, revolving at fixed r.p.m.  in this case yarn winding speed remains constant throughout the build of the beam.

SECTIONAL WARPING

A). Yarn is wound on firstly wound onto a drum and then wound onto the beam.

B). This process can be used for both single and multicolour weaving.

C). The end product is called weavers beam and can be directly installed onto                       the weaving loom.

BALL WARPING

A). Ball warping is an intermediate process for storing yarn for transport, dyeing or            reserve.

B). It does not produce a beam. 

C). The usual form is a cross wound cheese in which multiple ends are wound at the             same time in a ribbon which contains perhaps 50 or a 100 ends.

FLOW CHART OF WARPING

CREEL

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CONTROL SYSTEM

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REED

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MEASURING ROLLER

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WINDING ON A ROLLER OR BEAM

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DIRECT WARPING or SECTIONAL WARPING

MAJOR COMPONENTS OF WARPING MACHINE

There are two main components of warping machine.

1). Creel:

      A structure for holding for supply packages in textile process.

2). Headstock:

      The major component of the warping machine that actually rotates and winds         the warp sheet on package.(i.e. wrapper’s beam)

FUNCTION OF COMPONENTS OF CREEL

1). Cone or cheese spindle of high speed and peg for sectional warping.

2). Thread guide: To pass through the yarn in the required way.

3). Tensioner: To keep the yarn always in a uniform tension.

4). Yarn cleaner: To remove various faults of yarn like slubs, neps etc.

5). Suction fan or blower: To remove the dirt and dust from the yarn.

6). Breakage indicator: To indicate breakage in package.

7). Stop device: To stop the machine when yarn will be broken.

FEATURES OF COMPONENTS OF HEAD STOCK

1). Adjustable or variable v reed or wraith: To control the width of the warp beam.

2). Measuring and making device: Measure the amount of warp yarn on the beam and marks the yarn.

3). Yarn speed controlling device: To control the speed of yarn.

4). Pneumatic pressure unit: To press the warp beam with the surface contact of driving drum:

5). Break assembly: It stop the machine after required length is wound on beam.

6). Driving drum: Beam is in contact and control with driving drum.

7). Stop motion: Used to stop the machine after required length is wound on beam.

8). Beam bracket: To support and hold the beam.

9). Lease rod: Used for separation of yarn individually.

CREEL:

Independently of the warping system, the threads are fed from bobbins placed on creel. the creels are simply metallic frames on which the feeding bobbins are fitted; they are equipped with yarn tension device, which in modern machines are provided with automatic control and centralized tension variation. The no of packages in a creel must be decided on the economic merit of any given situation with warper's bobbins. its capacity from 400 to 600 packages; while with the cones or cheeses the range is wider, that is 600-1000 packages. In deciding about creel size, weight of yarn on supply package, floor space available and number of beams required must all be considered.

TYPE OF CREEL

1. As per the shape:

      a). H shaped (Horizontal ) creel

H SHAPED( HORIZONTAL CREEL)

         

    b). V shaped creel

V SHAPED CREEL

S.  No.	V- Shaped creel	H- Shaped creel
1	Wings/arms are placed at certain angle.	Wings are parallel to each other.
2	Yarns do not touch.	Yarns may touch each other.
3	Suitable for high speed warping,	Suitable for slow speed warping

2. AS PER THE CONSTRUCTION:

         a). Truck or trolley type:

There are many variants of the truck creel system but the principle is to use  `'truck', or mobile package carrier units, each consisting of a number of columns and tiers on either side so that when inserted on the axis of the creel frame it becomes a part of the creel.

The side members carrying tension units in positions corresponding to the package on the mobile unit when correctly installed in the frame can be moved outwards to provide working space between the tension device and the expended packages prior to running them out. the trucks have varying numbers of columns and tiers, generally in the range 6x9 per side, depending on the package size to be used and the corresponding creel gauge, which generally varies from 200 to 300 mm.

TROLLEY TYPE CREEL

     

b). Continuous chain creel

The two wings of an acute angled creel are each served y an endless chain, which moves the columns of yarn packages holders, and tension units round an endless track, transferring the expended packages from the running position outside the creel wings to the creeling position inside the creel and the creeled packages into the running position.

creel change inside cycle can be completed using such a system in less then; 15 minutes. A 'creel' is being transferred from the creeling position to the running position. The pegs shown as empty will normally carry cone residues from the running position to the creeling position where they are replaced by full packages for the next creel. This type of creel used in benninger direct beam warping machines.

CONTINUOUS CHAIN CREEL